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Reminiscences of Chicago Housing

In the very early 80's I spent about 8 months in Chicago. I lived in a neighborhood just south of the University of Chicago called "Woodlawn" south of 63rd St. near Cottage Grove. So, some 35 years later (today) I became interested in what happened to the neighborhood.

For one thing, a population crash. In 1960 the population was 81,279, by 1980 it was 36,323, and in 2010 23,410. The entire time the population was over 95% African-American (now it is 85% Black) and, 0.6% "Hispanic" (Now 2.7%). I made frequent trips to the Loop (downtown), which I remember as taking a bus, but which I can only find references to the Greenline Elevated, so something might be screwy with my memory. I also clearly remember passing by the Robert Taylor Housing project on South State Street each night, but then again, the L was a few blocks away, so it must have been a bus.

I lived in a basement, which was flooded half the time, in a restored (by a professor at the Univ. of Chicago) stone house. Beautiful house. Here is a picture of it from a real estate agent. Back in those days the block was lined with houses. Now, the block is mostly barren vacant lots. In those days slum lords illegally divided and subdivided housed into apartments and sub-apartments to rent to African-Americans (and a spare Hispanic) at very profitable rents. There weren't any businesses that I remember, having fled the area in the 1970's

Woodlawn House_.jpg

Between Woodlawn and the Loop, my most vivid memory were the absolutely gorgeous old buildings boarded up and turning into ruins. At night, the Robert Taylor Housing Project (RTHP) stop was definitely dark and scary. I remember the lookouts on abandoned cars. That said, I never had a problem walking from the Bus (or L) Stop to the basement room. RTHP was planned for 11,000 and had a population of 27,000, completely neglected by the city, full of trash, gangsters, no small businesses, and surrounded by the semi-ruins I previously mentioned. And, it was 6th poorest census area in the USA. It was finally demolished around 2000-2007.

ylor_Homes__Chicago_Tribune__photo_41867728_.jpg

Now, I want to show you a present day aerial photo of the area in Woodlawn that I lived in. Mostly because when I was there in 1980, the whole place was housing, and I remember it as being a lot of beautifully constructed houses and apartments with 1900 workmanship, and well kept up. Now as you see, its mostly vacant lots, looks like it would make a good area for small farms, community gardens, playgrounds and so on. As it is, these are "vacant lots infested with cat-sized rats", Lee Lee Henderson says. Some shiny roofs show gentrification... 63rd Street, which at one time was a vibrant business area, is almost all vacant lots.

6533 nellis woodlawn_.jpg

The closest school (1 1/2 blocks away) to where I lived is the University of Chicago Magnet School, which has fees and entry is by lottery (local residents get some preference, not sure how much). This school has a 100% college acceptance rate. I doubt my kids would win the lottery. Really, I don't get the whole system... seems like I thought kids just went to their neighborhood school. The public schools, if they still exist and haven't been demolished are rated somewhere around 1 to 3.5 out of 10. The next closest, 14 blocks away and across a highway, is the Emmett Till Math and Science Academy, a "magnet school" rated 2 out of 10. It has a nice website and very cute kids though.

Why so many demolisions (why does this remind me of the West Bank???) ? Here is a hint:

"Judges ordered 1,154 city buildings, most of them homes, razed last year, down from 1,316 in 2013 but up from 1,085 in 2012, according to data from the Chicago Department of Buildings and the Department of Law. The demo orders hit a recent historical peak in 2013 after rising steadily in the wake of the housing crisis, said John Holden, a Law Department spokesman."

The drop may suggest the housing crisis is ebbing in some of the city's most blighted neighborhoods, as foreclosure cases decline and more investors buy up properties that might have been torn down.

"It's logical that demolition orders are declining as the biggest wave of foreclosures has worked it was way through the system, said Robert Grossinger, vice president of Enterprise Community Partners, an affordable housing finance group. Properties typically become so-called zombie, or unattended, and fall into disrepair and become hazardous immediately after a foreclosure case is filed but before banks take control. That's often when homeowners move out and banks have yet to assess the properties, Grossinger said."

"PrivateBank announced this week that 12 developers had been selected that would be eligible for construction financing to rehabilitate properties as part of a program with the Land Bank." February 05, 2015. Demolition orders down, but housing crisis far from over

What happened to the residents of these abandoned, demolished neighborhoods? Truth is, nobody knows where most of them went. Of Cabrini Green's (another Chicago Hell Hole Project) 16,800 dislocated residents, 9,600 either violated their "lease terms" or plain vanished. The rest are mostly squeezed into already crowded neighborhoods like Englewood, while "vouchers" have all but disappeared from places like Lincoln Park. I will let you guess the demographics/economic status of these two zones.

BTW, I tried to get a housing voucher back in those days and failed. Nothing like studying 60 hours a week on a tiny grant, working 20, and living in a flooded basement. I don't remember eating, but I must have ate something, LOL.

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riverlover's picture

but I recall the lo-rise (2-3 floor) brick faced building blocks in Louisville. All gone now, I think. What happened to those people? Not there now.

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Hey! my dear friends or soon-to-be's, JtC could use the donations to keep this site functioning for those of us who can still see the life preserver or flotsam in the water.

Alligator Ed's picture

which was a group of high-rise slums owned and operated by Chicago. Even though crime was rampant, at least it was safe enough, back then, for my brother to walk from the L to school without any harassment. Since his teaching days, as Alex points out, the RTH have been obliterated. I don't know where those displaced residents went to, but it wasn't Lincoln Park.

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or just about anywhere else in the city proper, as a lifelong Chicago area resident (I grew up not far from this area in the 60s and 70s) I can tell you most of them are scattered around the suburbs in large apt. complexes (not public housing) with govt. subsidized rent. Better in some ways but not so much if you are poor and don't have a car for work, public transportation is not so good in most of these areas. The S.Side and W.Side of Chicago were home to many public housing complexes they are all gone now except a few of the smaller ones. The West side has been redeveloped and now you can rent a 1 room studio apt. for $1500 a month or buy a 2 bdrm condo for $300,000. They are letting this area of the S.Side decay so they can do the same thing, with its close proximity to the lake and Univ.of Chgo. there is lots of money to be made if you have the money (connections) to buy up the abandoned lots at tax auctions many go for $1.00.

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Alex Ocana's picture

I am glad you found the thread. When I was trying to find out what happened to the old neighborhood I ran into countless real estate adverts, some of which were "foreclosures" and depending on the neighborhood, some of them insanely cheap, others outrageously expensive. Thats how I found "my basement apartment" house.

I need to discuss this with someone (s) from Chicago or other big cities. I am not surprised at the underwhelming response to a discussion of "urban infrastructure" (and urban segregation), even though they are major issues.

Coming from Bolivia, in 1980, the area around 63rd near Woodlawn near where the UC Academy School is now didn't seem "blighted" to me. I actually thought the housing was pretty nice... even "fancy" in a pretty neighborhood. The early 1900's workmanship impressed me.

I don't understand the economics except that maybe something along the lines of poverty > abandonment > arson > mass foreclosures > demolished homes > relocation. Even at the time I called the suburbs "slumburbs" (how could anyone live like that?) and there seems to be a hints here and there that the older suburbs are slated to become the new slums. UC should be creaming in their pantsuits to finally wrest control of Woodlawn from the AA community. They can't try and use "covenants" anymore, and redlining is now something done using euphemistic methods. I should probably spend some time reading some of the local action groups websites.

So, if the older suburbs are slated to be the new slums, will this be something that deals with structural segregation? Can you say anything about Archer Hill? When did it become Hispanic (I never went north of the Loop, except I kind of remember standing in front of the Playboy Building) and how?

The election, the "race" between the Devil and Beelzebub is boring me to tears. Seems like most of the Sanders voters have decided to roll reefer and party on. Even progressives have done a hit job on #BLM and any other protest of value, "Dakota" excluded, that is just marginalized. In fact, I would have expected protests everywhere, all summer and what we got was one or two mini-riots, everyone crawling under the rug after #BlueLivesMatter became the overwhelming favorite.

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From the Light House.

Most of the older suburbs are just smaller versions of Chgo. still mostly segregated on racial lines with the exception of a few like Cicero Il. mostly Hispanic and some of the south burbs mostly black and are considered slums by many. The Chgo. area is still almost as segregated as it ever was with just minor improvement. Racism is still alive and well although economics probably plays a greater roll than before. You mentioned Archer Hill, I'm guessing you mean Archer Heights by Midway airport ( if not let me know) so I am very familiar with that area and it is now mostly Hispanic, It has been a progressive change starting in the 1990s it is still a nice area home to many city workers, teachers, cops and fireman due to Chicago's residency requirements. Although I still like living here there is lots of room for improvement and being white I don't experience many of the problems facing POC.

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