Bisbo's recent desert treatment spurred me to finally rouse myself from my typical lethargy.

Here's the Chateau's answer to extra water for the garden.

Chateau Bidet circa 2001

Between that picture and last year, those two facades became completely covered with ivy. The cretin SWPUWM hired to "trim around the windows" managed to kill the ivy. So now it's back to being more bidet and less chateau. Not a word. Not a word, please, or I'll restart having grievous bodily harm fantasies directed at all parties involved. Calm. Calm. Peace. Love. Watering the garden...

Chateau Bidet is an industrial building; a small factory, (erstwhile). As such it has 11' ceilings on the ground floor but the utilities (the drains from the second floor) are exposed. Were we not dyed-in-the-wool Hippies, this might have caused some concern vis-à-vis "civilized living". It never bothered us. When we moved in the whole place was sort of 1930s chic.
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Once the garden got going, it began to dawn on me that we had [pun alert] an untapped resource in the form of the drain water from upstairs. We bathed and showered with the water. Sent it down the drain to wherever, then had to buy more water to water the garden. Folly! Worse, sacrilege! "Och, mon. Ya dinna ken we'd just throw it away, did ya?"

Pay once, use twice!

Here's the heart of the system -- a 1.5" PVC Ball Valve.

These are available in any hardware store or big box store.
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And here's the brains of the system.

Since this is way up near the ceiling, about 10' off the floor, I needed a way to activate the valve easily without climbing a ladder or sprouting wings. I modeled the wheel after old style iron wheels that used to be used for all sorts of things back in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. I looked for a long time for a "real" wheel, meaning one made of iron. No luck at all, and summer was fast approaching. This wheel is two layers of 1/2" birch plywood laminated together, pierced, and routed to form a recess on the edge. The black valve handle is mortised into the back side of the wheel, and held in place with metal straps and screws.
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Still, it had to be activated.

Simple logic: The handle nearest to the drain, in the "up" position, is where the water goes. Here, the drainwater is headed for "the river" which is off to the right. These handles are also 1/2" birch plywood, enameled.
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Time to head for the Great Outdoors.

This is the "I've got bigger fish to fry" suspension system. Some wire and some screws into the ceiling. Haute Shabby has its place in the world, after all.
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After the long trip across the ceiling, we're finally outdoors.

The pipe (just barely visible in the upper left corner of the picture) pokes out the back wall of the Chateau and makes a "90" down until it almost touches the roof of the Florida Room. "Room" is something of an exaggeration. It's 4'x14', but it lets the moggies smell the outdoors without escaping or getting too cozy with the flea-infested porch cats. Also, no fights.

The pipe is capped on the end and there's a series of holes out of the sides so that water escaping spreads out across the roof. The PVC strip across the bottom of the roof is to stop the water running down the roof from shooting out and all over the deck below. (Through trial and error, the strip was eventually enlarged and lengthened, but I don't have a picture of that.)
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Greywater meets rainwater.

The roof of the Florida Room captures rainwater too. Together with the bathwter, it all goes into the barrels - 32gal. trash cans. The filler downspout goes to the farthest so that there is a constant flow of water in one direction, as opposed to filling and draining (using) the water directly under the gutter, and letting the rest molder.
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Detail of the grey/rainwater inlet.

There are screens up at the gutter end, but even so small debris gets past them - mostly ivy berries. Here you see the leg of a pair of pantyhose. It serves three functions; the first is to capture the last of the detritus that makes it past the screens, and the second is to keep mosquitoes from getting into the water. The leg hangs down well into the barrel and the rubbish slowly decomposes and adds to the vitamin value of the water. I read that in The Jack-Leg Agronomist, really.
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Here's the whole shebang in one view.

Notice the sturdy scraps of plywood* and plastic milk crates bases. I got this idea from one of the how-to articles in the back of Better Hovels & Outhouses magazine - Aug.-'08, I think. Some people collect back issues of National Geographic magazine. I save all my back issues of BH&O. Never know when some half-assed way to do something might arise and I need a pictorial reference. *The plywood wasn't "installed" until the year after these pictures were taken when it became apparent that the milk crates weren't spreading the weight out well enough.
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Detail of the fill gauge.

Cute, simple and effective. Great idea when it was brand new. As time went by, it would turn out to be slightly less practical than originally intended. Some kind of green algae grew in the tube, making it near impossible to see how much water was in the barrels. Once or twice a year, I'd loosen the band-clamp at the top and run a swab down the tube. Voila! Just like new.
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Doing double duty.

The spigot lets me shut off all the water in case of needing to replace any parts. The green hose goes to the garden. The tap on the right is to fill a watering can for the plants on the deck.
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End of the Line.

Here's where the system ends and the garden begins. As I spread out and use the coiled hose there's about 4' of drop, aka "head". It's not much in the way of pressure but with a big, wide "watering can" nozzle, it produces a very gentle rain-like spray. A good watering uses about 30gals. Takes a while, (half an hour.) But, I get to daydream and do something at the same time... listen to the local birds... watch all the tiny insects... think of big ideas... ponder time itself.
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Technical Note:

Greywater, courtesy of Wikipedia

Greywater (also spelled graywater) or sullage is all wastewater generated in households or office buildings from streams without fecal contamination, i.e. all streams except for the wastewater from toilets. Sources of greywater include, e.g. sinks, showers, baths, clothes washing machines or dish washers. As greywater contains fewer pathogens than domestic wastewater, it is generally safer to handle and easier to treat and reuse onsite for toilet flushing, landscape or crop irrigation, and other non-potable uses. However, the use of non-toxic and low-sodium soap and personal care products is recommended to protect vegetation when reusing greywater for irrigation purposes.[1] The application of greywater reuse in urban water systems provides substantial benefits for both the water supply subsystem by reducing the demand for fresh clean water as well as the wastewater subsystems by reducing the amount of wastewater required to be conveyed and treated.[2]

Greywater, by definition, does not include the discharge of toilets or fecally contaminated wastewater of any kind, which is designated sewage or blackwater to indicate it contains human waste. However, under certain conditions traces of feces, and therefore pathogens, might enter the greywater stream via effluent from the shower or washing machine.

Ours has barely any soap in it, no laundry detergents, and what soap it does have is Hippy Good For You soap.
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System capacity is 120gals, maximum. The clear tubing connecting the barrels was scrap from another project. Some of the band-clamps were extras from yet another project. Total outlay not counting the aforementioned parts was about $120, or $1/gallon.
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Hope you enjoyed the tour. Open for questions.